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Please click on one of the links above to select the installation guide you require. If you have any questions or need further assistance please do not hesitate to give us a call.

Under Wood and Laminate Aluminium Foil Heating Kits.

1: The Sub floor must be clean, sound and suitable for the chosen floor covering prior to laying the heating. Impact plus 6mm insulation or hard insulation boards must then be installed over the sub floor prior to fitting the heating, (see insulation fitting instructions).

2: Measure the floor accurately allowing for a 100mm+ unheated border around the perimeter of the area. Once measured make sure the heating mat is a suitable size for the area. The mat size and wattage can be found on the outer box and heating mat. The mat should also be tested for continuity and resistance at this stage. The readings should be noted down on the back warranty page of this manual. (See Fig 2)

(IMPORTANT, If the mat is incorrectly sized or the resistance readings do not match the test results on the box label, stop and return the mat for the correct size. Once the mat is unrolled it becomes the responsibility of the installer and the mat can not be returned for an alternate size).

3: Start the heating as close to the thermostat location as possible. If this is impractical the cold tail can be easily extended with a suitable electrical wire. Slowly unroll the mat using the foil tape to hold the mat in place. All exposed cables at the side of mats must be covered with the foil tape provided. As you proceed, the mat must be laid flat making sure the heating element is not twisted or stressed at any point.

4: To turn the mat in any direction or turn it back on itself the installer can cut through the mesh/foil backing, (DO NOT CUT THE HEATING CABLE) to allow the mat to be redirected in any direction. (See Fig 3)

5: Alternatively if the area to be covered is an irregular shape or an obstacle has to be avoided the mat can be cut several times into strips, (the cable must never be detached from its foil casing.) This will allow the thin strips of cable enveloped in the foil to be laid in any direction. The foil tape must then be used to cover any exposed wire and join all strips and mat runs together. Exposed wire can cause hot spots also disrupt the earthing continuity between heating sections. It is important that cables are not laid to close together. A minimum of 50mm should be maintained between cable runs. If the heating cables get too close, touch or overlap at any point the cable may overheat. (See Fig 3)

Overlay Duo, For Use Under Carpet & Vinyl Flooring.

Duo overlay is designed for use under carpet and vinyl flooring. It is designed to provide a strong stable layer for carpet and vinyl to be fitted over while protecting the heating and insulation fitted under. When used with impact plus insulation, underlay is not needed if carpet is to be fitted. If underlay is fitted, it must be 0.8 tog or lower. If vinyl flooring is to be fitted over the heating then hard insulation boards should be fitted in place of the impact plus thermal insulation.

Step 1
Make sure the floor is clean level and suitable for the chosen floor covering.

Step 2
Once the insulation and heating is fitted, (make sure to follow the appropriate insulation and heating fitting instructions) the first layer of boards can be fitted. Make sure to stager all joints and cut the board tightly over the floor area. If gripper rod is fitted then the boards can be cut within the gripper rod perimeter. All joints must be taped together using the fibre tape provided. Double sided tape is then fixed around the perimeter with additional lines fitted at 300mm spacing’s. The duo overlay must extend over the heating mats by a minimum of 50mm on all sides.

Step 3
The second layer can then be fitted over and fixed to the first making sure to stagger all joints. Additional double sided tape can be fitted to the surface of the first layer if required to make sure all boards are well stuck down and both layers are well bonded together.

Step 4
A second layer of fibre tape should now be fixed over all joints on the second layer leaving the duo overlay ready to receive the final floor covering.

Duo overlay is not a waterproof layer and contact with water or other liquids must be avoided. If heating is fitted under the duo overlay it is good practice to label the floor to warn others other about any electrical hazard and that drilling, cutting or puncturing the floor surface in any way may damage the underfloor heating.

6: Once the heating is fitted the electrical resistance and continuity test should be repeated and noted down on the warranty page. Make sure these readings are the same as the readings noted down during stage 2. The heating should also be tested after the flooring has been fitted. There is no limit to how much the cable can be tested but to complete the warranty the heating must be tested before it is laid, after being laid and after the floor covering has been installed. All figures must be accurately recorded.

7: The floor probe supplied with the thermostat must now be fitted. The probe must be installed under the foil and between 2 heating wires but no more than 30mm away from one cable. Make sure when fitting the probe, no other heating or cooling sources can influence the floor probe such as hot water pipes. Once the probe is fitted a resistance check should be carried out to confirm the probe is fully functional and the readings noted down on the warranty card, (See Fig 4) When heating wood or laminate the floor covering manufactures recommended max floor temperature should be programed into the thermostat. The thermostat must also be set to regulate floor temperature , not air temperature.

8: If multiple mats are to be installed all mats can be connected together into a suitable junction box and then one suitable spur run to the thermostat location and left ready to be wired in. (See Fig 5)

9: The heating system must be run via a residual current device (RCD), fitted in accordance with all current electrical regulations at the time of installation. All electrical connections should be carried out by a qualified electrician. It is the installer/ electrician’s responsibility to make sure the system is fitted correctly and any additional materials are suitable for use with the heating system installed.

Impact Plus Thermal Insulation.

Impact plus thermal insulation is designed for use directly under wood, laminate and carpet type floors. The insulation is 6mm in depth and comes as 1m wide sheets x the length you require. The next steps are listed to help guide you through the installation process. Please note that tiles and stone flooring is not suitable for this insulation. If tiles and stone are to be fitted then hard insulation or tile backer boards should be used.

1: The sub floor whether concrete or wood should be made suitable for the chosen floor covering, prior to any insulation being fitted. The sheets are designed to provide increased insulation levels not structural rigidity or floor levelling.

2: Make sure the floor is clean, (dust and debris free). Start by using either a double sided tape or spray contact adhesive to sufficiently cover the floor area where insulation is to be laid. A full floor covering is not necessary as you only require sufficient to hold the insulation in place while the floor covering is being fitted. (In small areas the insulation can simply be laid loose over the floor).

4: Working in manageable sized areas, lay the insulation over the floor area. Each run should be butted together and cut neatly in around the edge of the room making sure to achieve a full floor coverage.

5: If the insulation needs to be cut to size this is easily done with a sharp Stanley knife or scissors.

6: Once the insulation is fitted the floor should be kept clean and tidy. This is to make sure the insulation is not damaged or debris trodden into the surface which could affect or damage any subsequent layers fitted over the insulation.

7: Carpet Flooring. Depending upon what type of gripper rod is being used, it can be advantageous to install a 50mm strip of 6mm MDF or similar board around the perimeter of the room prior to fitting the insulation. The insulation can then be fitted into the well created to leave a level floor. This allows the gripper rod to be fitted onto the 6mm perimeter boarding, which will help the carpet fitter to easily hook the carpet over the gripper rods.

Under Tile & Stone Heat Mats 150w and 200w.

1: The sub floor must be clean, sound and suitable for the chosen floor covering prior to laying the heating. We highly recommend the use of a suitable insulation layer over concrete sub floors.

2: Measure the floor accurately allowing for a 100mm+ unheated border around the perimeter of the area. Once measured make sure the heating mat is a suitable size for the area. The mat size and wattage can be found on the outer box and heating mat label. The mat should also be tested for continuity and resistance at this stage. The readings should be noted down on the back warranty page of this manual. (See Fig 2)

(IMPORTANT, If the mat is incorrectly sized or the resistance readings do not match the test results on the box label, stop and return the mat for the correct size. Once the mat is unrolled over the floor it becomes the responsibility of the installer and the mat can not be returned for an alternate size).

3: Start the heating close to the thermostat location if possible. If this is impractical the cold tail can be easily extended with a suitable electrical wire. Slowly unroll the mat pealing the adhesive backing tape on the mat off as you proceed. The mat must be firmly pressed onto the floor making sure the heating element is not twisted or stressed at any point.

4: To turn the mat in any direction or return it back on itself the installer can cut through the mesh backing, (DO NOT CUT THE HEATING CABLE) to allow the mat to be redirected in any direction. (See Fig 3)

5: Alternatively if the area to be covered is an irregular shape or an obstacle has to be avoided the heating cable can be detached from the mesh backing and laid loose. This will allow the cable to be laid in any direction and a suitable fixing tape can then be used to hold the cable in position ready for the subsequent floor covering to be installed over. When laying the heating cable loose a consistent spacing between cable runs must be maintained, (the same spacing as when attached to the mesh backing) to achieve an even heat output across the floor. It is important that cables are not laid to close together. A minimum of 50mm should be maintained between cable runs. If the heating cables get too close, touch or overlap at any point the cable may overheat. (See Fig 3)

6: Once the heating is fitted the electrical resistance and continuity test should be repeated and noted down on the warranty page. Make sure these readings are the same as the readings noted down during stage 2. The heating should also be tested after the flooring has been fitted. There is no limit to how much the cable can be tested but to complete the warranty the heating must be tested before it is laid, after being laid and after the floor covering has been installed. All figures must be accurately recorded.

7: The floor probe supplied with the thermostat should now be fitted. The probe must be installed between 2 heating wires but no more than 30mm away from one cable. Make sure when fitting the probe no other heating or cooling sources can influence the floor probe such as hot water pipes. Once the probe is fitted a resistance check should be carried out to confirm the probe is fully functional and the readings noted down on the warranty card. (See Fig 4)

8: If multiple mats are to be installed all mats can be connected together in parallel into a suitable junction box and then one suitable spur run to the thermostat location and left ready to be wired in. (See Fig 5)

9: The heating system must be run via a residual current device (RCD), fitted in accordance with all current electrical regulations at time of installation. All electrical connections should be carried out by a qualified electrician. It is the installer/electrician’s responsibility to make sure the system is fitted correctly and any additional materials are suitable for use with the heating system installed.

Under Vinyl Heat Film.

1: The sub floor must be clean, sound and suitable for the chosen floor covering prior to laying the heating. 6mm impact plus thermal insulation or had insulation boards must be installed over the sub floor prior to fitting the heating, (see insulation fitting instructions).

2: Before laying the heating the floor should be measured accurately and a plan done to show where the individual mats are to be laid. All heat film mats are made to the customer’s measurements. If a proposed mat layout was produced and agreed this can now be followed which will show which mats are to be laid in which areas. If a proposed mat layout was not agreed the mat sizes would have been produced according to the customers stated mat sizes. (See Fig 2)

3: Once the mat layout has been determined the mats must be tested for continuity and resistance at this stage. The readings must be checked off and noted down on the back of the warranty page of this manual. All readings must be within tolerance.

(IMPORTANT, Once the mat is unrolled and taped to the floor it becomes the responsibility of the installer and the mat can not be returned for an alternate size).

4: The floor probe supplied with the thermostat should now be fitted. The probe must be installed directly under an area that will have a heat mat laid over. The probe must be scored into the floor/insulation and taped in place, leaving it flush with the insulation. The end of the probe should not be covered. Make sure when fitting the probe no other heating or cooling sources can influence the floor probe such as hot water pipes. Once the probe is fitted a resistance check should be carried out to confirm the probe is fully functional and the readings noted down on the warranty card. (See Fig 2 +4)

5: Lay the heating mats over the insulation COPPER BAR DOWN, making sure the mats do not overlap at any point. Tape can be used on the ends and edges to hold the mats in place. All cold tails and connection points to the heating mats must be scored into the insulation and taped over which will leave a flat level floor layer for the floor covering to be installed over.

6: The mats must always be connected in parallel, NOT series. If multiple mats are used, it is recommended to run all the cold connection wires back to one point. This will allow the installer at a later date to join all live wires together and all neutral wires together in a suitable junction box. One spur can then be taken from the junction box to the thermostat. (See Fig 3)

7: Once all the heating mats have been laid in place the vapour barrier can be fitted over. The vapour barrier does not have to cover the entire area only the heat mats themselves. Please note every 1 meter of vapour barrier folds out to be 4m in width. This like the heating mats can be held in place with the tape provided. (See Fig 4) If the final flooring is not to be fitted for some time the heat mats should be protected from damage with a suitable protective layer.

Overlay Duo, For Use Under Vinyl Flooring.

Duo overlay is designed for use undervinyl flooring. It is designed to provide a strong stable layer for vinyl to be fitted over while protecting the heating and insulation fitted under. When used with impact plus insulation, underlay is not needed. If vinyl flooring is to be fitted over the heating then hard insulation boards should be fitted in place of the impact plus thermal insulation.

Step 1
Make sure the floor is clean level and suitable for the chosen floor covering.

Step 2
Once the insulation and heating is fitted, (make sure to follow the appropriate insulation and heating fitting instructions) the first layer of boards can be fitted. Make sure to stager all joints and cut the board tightly over the floor area. If gripper rod is fitted then the boards can be cut within the gripper rod perimeter. All joints must be taped together using the fibre tape provided. Double sided tape is then fixed around the perimeter with additional lines fitted at 300mm spacing’s. The duo overlay must extend over the heating mats by a minimum of 50mm on all sides.

Step 3
The second layer can then be fitted over and fixed to the first making sure to stagger all joints. Additional double sided tape can be fitted to the surface of the first layer if required to make sure all boards are well stuck down and both layers are well bonded together.

Step 4
A second layer of fibre tape should now be fixed over all joints on the second layer leaving the duo overlay ready to receive the final floor covering.

Duo overlay is not a waterproof layer and contact with water or other liquids must be avoided. If heating is fitted under the duo overlay it is good practice to label the floor to warn others other about any electrical hazard and that drilling, cutting or puncturing the floor surface in any way may damage the underfloor heating.

Resistance Check.

To check heat film mat resistance in Ohms (Ω) please follow the equation below

250 ÷ SQM (of mat) x 0.95 = Ω+/-10%

The reading must be within 10%, if not test the mat again or call technical for assistance.

The cold tails on each mat can be extended or shortened on site please consult your electrician as this will depend on mat layout and total heating load.

8: Once all the mats have been installed they must be retested, See step 3. The heating is now ready to have the final floor covering installed over. The heating must also be tested after the flooring has been fitted. There is no limit to how much the heating can be tested but to complete the warranty the heating must be tested before it is laid, after being laid and after the floor covering has been installed. All figures must be accurately recorded.

9: Before the heating is turned on, the floor manufacturer's max recommended floor temperature must be programmed into the thermostat. The thermostat installed must have a max default floor temperature setting and the thermostat must be set to regulate floor temperature only via a suitable floor probe / probes, (never run the thermostat on air temperature). If floor temperature is not regulated correctly, some floor coverings can be overheated and damaged. Please refer to your thermostat instructions for max floor temperature settings.

D500 Digital Thermostat

Underfloor Heating world Tr3 Thermostats

T700 Digital Thermostat

Underfloor Heating world Tr3 Thermostats

D600 Digital Thermostat

Underfloor Heating world Tr3 Thermostats

CT1000 Touch Screen Thermostat

Underfloor Heating world Tr3 Thermostats

Loose Wire Under Tile and Stone Heating Cable.

1: The sub floor must be clean, sound and suitable for the chosen floor covering prior to laying the heating. We highly recommend the use of a suitable insulation layer over concrete and uninsulated sub floors.

2: Measure the floor accurately allowing for a 100mm+ unheated border around the perimeter of the area. Once measured make sure the heating cable is suitably sized for the area to be heated. Typically most domestic loose wire systems (depending upon your requirements) will be fitted with 140w-200w/m2. To work out your floor/system wattage, simply divide the heating system total wattage by the total floor area m2 to be heated. The end figure should ideally be between 140 – 200w/m2. The length of the cable and total system wattage can be found on the outer box's/cable spools.

3: Before the cable is unrolled it must be tested for continuity and resistance. Mark this reading down on the back warranty page of this manual. (See Fig 2)

(IMPORTANT, If the cable is incorrectly sized or the resistance readings do not match the test results on the box label, stop and return for the correct size. Once the cable is unrolled over the floor it becomes the responsibility of the installer and the cable can not be returned for an alternate size).

4: Using the figures worked out in stage 2, the spacing's between cable runs are worked out by:

A: Divide 1000 by the length (meters) of the heating cable.

B: Multiply result A by the size of the area you are heating in m2.

The final figure is the spacing in mm the cables should be spaced out at. Please note the figure should be somewhere between 50 – 75mm. This figure is a guide and small adjustments may be required to the final spacings to achieve the best coverage. The cable must NOT be cut or reduced in length. The spacings between cables are either increased to increase the heated area, or reduced to reduce the heated area. Only the black cold / connection ends can be reduced or lengthened if required.

5: Before the cable is unrolled and fitted it is advisable to mark the floor accurately using the results from stage 4 showing precisely where the heating cable is to be laid. This will allow the installer to accurately design the floor layout to best use the available cable making sure to keep even spacings between cable runs. (See Fig 3)

6: If possible start laying the cable working away from the thermostat location. Using small tabs of fixing tape, accurately lay the cable. It is un-advisable to cover the entire cable with fixing tape as this can affect the performance of subsequent adhesives to adhere sufficiently to the sub floor. The tape is only required to maintain a consistent spacing between cable runs until the levelling/adhesive is applied over. It is important that cables are not laid too close together. A minimum of 50mm should be maintained between cable runs. If the heating cable is set to close, touch or overlapped at any point the cable may overheat.

7: Once the heating is fitted the electrical resistance and continuity test should be repeated and noted down on the warranty page. Make sure these readings are the same as the readings noted down during stage 2. The heating should also be tested and results recorded after the flooring has been fitted. There is no limit to how much the cable can be tested but to complete the warranty the heating must be tested before it is laid, after being laid and after the floor covering has been installed. All figures must be accurately recorded. (See Fig 2)

8: The floor probe supplied with the thermostat should now be fitted. The probe must be installed between 2 heating wires but no more than 30mm away from one cable. Make sure when fitting the probe no other heating or cooling sources can influence the floor probe such as hot water pipes. Once the probe is fitted a resistance check should be carried out to confirm the probe is fully functional and the readings noted down on the warranty card. (See Fig 4)

9: If multiple cables are to be installed, all cables can be connected together into a suitable junction box and then one suitable spur run to the thermostat location and left ready to be wired in. (See Fig 5)

10: The heating system must be run via a residual current device (RCD), fitted in accordance with all current electrical regulations at time of installation. All electrical connections should be carried out by a qualified electrician. It is the installer/electrician’s responsibility to make sure the system is fitted correctly and any additional materials are suitable for use with the heating system installed.

In Screed Heating Cable, (for all floor coverings).

1: The Sub floor must be insulated with a suitable insulation, clean, sound and made ready to receive the screed covering prior to the heating cable being installed.

2: Measure the floor accurately allowing for a 100mm+ unheated border around the perimeter of the area. Once measured make sure the heating cable is suitably sized for the area to be heated. Typically most domestic in screed floors (depending upon your requirements) will be fitted with 160w-220w/m2. To work out your floor/system wattage, simply divide the heating systems total wattage by the total floor area to be heated in m2. The end figure should be between 160 – 220w/m2. The length of the cable and total wattage can be found on the outer box or heating cable.

3: Before the cable is unrolled it must be tested for continuity and resistance. Mark this reading down on the back warranty page of this manual. (See Fig 2)

(IMPORTANT, If the cable is incorrectly sized or the resistance readings do not match the test results on the box label, stop and return for the correct size. Once the cable is unrolled it becomes the responsibility of the installer and the cable can not be returned for an alternate size).

4: Using the figures worked out in stage 2, the spacing's between cable runs are worked out by:

A: Divide 1000 by the length (meters) of the heating

cable. B: Times result A by the size of the area you are heating in m2. The final figure is the spacing in mm the cables should be spaced out at.

Please note the figure should be somewhere between 70 – 110mm. This figure is a guide and small adjustments may be required to the final spacing's to achieve the best coverage. The cable must NOT be cut or reduced in length. The spacing's between cables are either increased to increase the heated area, or reduced to reduce the heated area, (the black cold/connection ends can be reduced or lengthened if required). (See Fig 3)

5: Before the cable is unrolled and fitted it is advised to mark the floor accurately showing precisely where the heating cable is to be laid. This will allow the installer to accurately design the floor layout to best use the available cable making sure to keep even spacing's between cable runs. (See Fig 3)

6: If possible start laying the cable working away from the thermostat location using small tabs of fixing tape or fixing clips to accurately lay the cable. It is inadvisable to cover the entire cable with fixing tape as this will affect the screeds ability to fully envelope the cable. The tape is only required to maintain a consistent spacing between cable runs to achieve an even floor covering until the screed is applied over. It is important that cables are not laid too close together. A minimum of 50mm should be maintained between cable runs. If the heating cable is set too close, touch or overlap at any point the cable may overheat.

7: Once the heating is fitted the electrical resistance and continuity test should be repeated and noted down on the warranty page. Make sure these readings are the same as the readings noted down during stage 2. The heating should also be tested after the screed has been laid. There is no limit to how much the cable can be tested but to complete the warranty the heating must be tested before it is laid, after being laid and after the covering screed has been installed. All figures must be accurately recorded.

8: The floor probe supplied with the thermostat should now be fitted. The probe must be installed between 2 heating wires but no more than 30mm away from one cable. Make sure when fitting the probe no other heating or cooling sources can influence the floor probe such as hot water pipes. Once the probe is fitted a resistance check should be carried out to confirm the probe is fully functional and the readings noted down on the warranty card. (See Fig 5)

9: If multiple cables are to be installed all cables can be connected together into a suitable junction box and then one suitable spur run to the thermostat location and left ready to be wired in. (See Fig 5)

10: The heating system is now ready to have either, flexible 20-75mm self leveling compound or screed installed over in accordance with the adhesive manufactures instructions. The heating must be run via a residual current device (RCD) and connected to the mains power in accordance with all current electrical regulations at time of installation. All electrical connection should be carried out by a qualified electrician. It is the installer/electrician’s responsibility to make sure the system is fitted correctly and any additional materials are suitable for use with the heating system installed.

Wetroom Insulated Showerlay Shower Tray Forma's.

Living Heat showerlay trays are designed for wetroom instillations where floor tiles are to be used. Ideal for use with underfloor hearting the boards are easy to fit and provide a level and unobstructed shower base.
The board is a 20mm reinforced thermal insulation board with preformed slopes to a central or offset drain position.
6 options are available and boards can be easily cut to size if required All boards require a suitable drain unit available from Living Heat Heating. Please make sure to fully read and follow these instructions to achieve best results when fitting Living Heat showerlay trays.

Showerlay shower tray boards Showerlay shower tray break down

1: Floor surface, (wood or concrete) must be solid, level and ready to accept a standard 1 part flexible tile adhesive (used to hold the tray in place).

2: Lay the tray in place and clearly mark the drain position onto the floor.

3: Cut a hole in the floor large enough for the waist to TIGHTLY fit through. The hole can be extended in one direction slightly (See picture) to help locate the pipe connection. Care must be taken to make sure the reinforced backer plate on the back of the tray covers the drainage hole.

4: Check there is no excessive movement around the drain cut out. If movement is apparent then additional support should be fitted under the floor close to the drain cut out location to minimise this movement and support the shower tray.

5: Fit the pipework and connect the drain in place making sure all joints are watertight.

6: Place the black rubber O ring over the top of the drain housing.

7: Spread the whole area where the tray is to be fitted over using a notched trowel with a good quality 1 part flexible cement based tile adhesive.

8: Place the tray over the adhesive and press the whole tray firmly down into the adhesive. Make sure the tray is level and all edges fully supported with adhesive. Clean of excess adhesive from the edge of tray and drain cut out edges before leaving alone until adhesive has set.

9: Stages 9 + 10 + 10a should be done simultaneously. Run a generous amount of silicone around the upper drain hole edge, (blue area), of the shower tray. Now without delay follow step 10.

10: Run generous beads of silicone around the inner and outer flat area on the Underside of the great support. Turn over and position directly over the tray drainage hole.

10A:Without delay insert the male threaded part of drain and screw tightly down to the drain below using the tool provided, making sure there are no crossed threads. The grate support should be held square to the tray whilst being tightened. Clean off excess silicone around edge.

 

 

 11: Insert the trap and hair filter followed by the stainless steel grate.










The edge of the tray will need to be built up with either Living Heat 20mm cementatious tile backer boards or and alternative 20mm layer such as marine ply. All joints and adjoining surfaces should be waterproofed and tanked prior to tiles being fitted to avoid water penetration in these areas.

Below can be seen a floor completed using 20mm cementatiouse tile backer boards fixed with board washers (alternatively adhesive can be used). The following picture shows all joints taped with Living Heat aqua seal tape and left ready to tile over. If using tiles larger than 10 x 10cm the tiles should be cut along the lines shown in the 3rd picture to maintain the tray falls so water is guided towards the drain location.

Note: *The natural fall of the tray must always be maintained to effectively guide water toward the drain. The tiles must however finish flush with or higher than the great cover.

*During the tiling / grouting process the drain and great should be covered to make sure adhesive, grout and other debris does not enter the drain.

*Living Heat Underfloor heating is suitable for use directly over the showerlay trays but the must not obstruct the drain.

*All Living Heat trays can be cut down in size if require but no cut edge must come within 150mm of the drain.

*The tray must be fully bedded on a suitable good quality flexible tile adhesive. Particular care should be taken to ensure all drain edges and outer edges of the tray are fully bedded to maximise support and minimise movement.

Room Tanking:

If using Living Heat 20mm cementatious tile backer boards please follow the following instructions to create a tanked wetroom area ready for tiles to be fitted directly over.

1A: Using 20mm Living Heat tile backer boards, cover the whole floor area, fixing the boards down using a good quality flexible cement based tile adhesive or screws and washers at every 30cm, (12 per board). All joints should be butted up tight together and boards staggered where possible.

2A: Living Heat 10mm or 20mm tile backer boards can also be used to insulate and waterproof the walls. When fixing these boards to walls screws and washers will be required at a maximum 300mm centres, (12 per board). Like on the floor all boards should be tightly butted together.

3A: All joints should be should be taped with Living Heat self adhesive waterproof tape. Corner joins should first be filled with silicone prior to taping. Where corners meet the vertical joint these should be taped last and extended over the bottom horizontal tape to fully cover the joint.

  

Under Wood and Laminate Aluminium Foil Heating Kits.

1: The Sub floor must be clean, sound and suitable for the chosen floor covering prior to laying the heating. Impact plus 6mm insulation or hard insulation boards must then be installed over the sub floor prior to fitting the heating, (see insulation fitting instructions).

2: Measure the floor accurately allowing for a 100mm+ unheated border around the perimeter of the area. Once measured make sure the heating mat is a suitable size for the area. The mat size and wattage can be found on the outer box and heating mat. The mat should also be tested for continuity and resistance at this stage. The readings should be noted down on the back warranty page of this manual. (See Fig 2)

(IMPORTANT, If the mat is incorrectly sized or the resistance readings do not match the test results on the box label, stop and return the mat for the correct size. Once the mat is unrolled it becomes the responsibility of the installer and the mat can not be returned for an alternate size).

3: Start the heating as close to the thermostat location as possible. If this is impractical the cold tail can be easily extended with a suitable electrical wire. Slowly unroll the mat using the foil tape to hold the mat in place. All exposed cables at the side of mats must be covered with the foil tape provided. As you proceed, the mat must be laid flat making sure the heating element is not twisted or stressed at any point.

4: To turn the mat in any direction or turn it back on itself the installer can cut through the mesh/foil backing, (DO NOT CUT THE HEATING CABLE) to allow the mat to be redirected in any direction. (See Fig 3)

5: Alternatively if the area to be covered is an irregular shape or an obstacle has to be avoided the mat can be cut several times into strips, (the cable must never be detached from its foil casing.) This will allow the thin strips of cable enveloped in the foil to be laid in any direction. The foil tape must then be used to cover any exposed wire and join all strips and mat runs together. Exposed wire can cause hot spots also disrupt the earthing continuity between heating sections. It is important that cables are not laid to close together. A minimum of 50mm should be maintained between cable runs. If the heating cables get too close, touch or overlap at any point the cable may overheat. (See Fig 3)

6: Once the heating is fitted the electrical resistance and continuity test should be repeated and noted down on the warranty page. Make sure these readings are the same as the readings noted down during stage 2. The heating should also be tested after the flooring has been fitted. There is no limit to how much the cable can be tested but to complete the warranty the heating must be tested before it is laid, after being laid and after the floor covering has been installed. All figures must be accurately recorded.

7: The floor probe supplied with the thermostat must now be fitted. The probe must be installed under the foil and between 2 heating wires but no more than 30mm away from one cable. Make sure when fitting the probe, no other heating or cooling sources can influence the floor probe such as hot water pipes. Once the probe is fitted a resistance check should be carried out to confirm the probe is fully functional and the readings noted down on the warranty card, (See Fig 4) When heating wood or laminate the floor covering manufactures recommended max floor temperature should be programed into the thermostat. The thermostat must also be set to regulate floor temperature , not air temperature.

8: If multiple mats are to be installed all mats can be connected together into a suitable junction box and then one suitable spur run to the thermostat location and left ready to be wired in. (See Fig 5)

9: The heating system must be run via a residual current device (RCD), fitted in accordance with all current electrical regulations at the time of installation. All electrical connections should be carried out by a qualified electrician. It is the installer/ electrician’s responsibility to make sure the system is fitted correctly and any additional materials are suitable for use with the heating system installed.

Cementatious Tile Backer Boards. (Wall and Floor Boards)

Cementatious tile backer boards are designed to insulate and water proof walls and floors. Ideal for wet room installations, the boards can be used directly under tile, stone, wood and laminate floors. It can also be used under mosaic, vinyl and carpet flooring but must first have a 9+mm layer of flexible self levelling installed over prior to the vinyl or carpet being fitted. The insulation comes in 6, 10 & 20mm depths. The steps below are listed to help guide you through the installation process.

1A: If you are fitting tile backer board to a floor loosely or with tile adhesive please follow the instructions on page 13 - 14 (Hard insulation boards)

1B: If you are screwing the boards in place or tanking a room please follow the instructions below.

2: The sub floor or walls whether concrete, wood or plasterboard should be made suitable for the chosen floor covering, (ie tiles) prior to any boards being fitted. The boards are designed to provide increased insulation levels not structural rigidity.

3: Tile backer boards can be screwed to walls and floors using suitable fixing discs and screws. The discs must be located at 300mm centres or closer, (minimum 12 fixings per 1200x600 board). If the boards are to be screwed directly to stud walling the supporting studwork must be fitted at 300mm centres, (6mm boards are for floor only and not suitable for walls due to their insufficient structural rigidity).

4: Fit the boards to the wall / floor making sure to butt the boards tightly together to achieve a full floor / wall coverage. It is good practice to stagger joints between boards and if necessary a flexible floor adhesive can be used to fill any small gaps between boards. It is important the boards are fixed securely to walls and consideration given to the weight of subsequent wall coverings. On floors the boards are not designed to bridge gaps and must be screwed back tight to the floor surface to avoid any bounce as this could adversely affect subsequent layers.

5: If boards need to be cut to size this is easily done with a sharp Stanley knife.

6: If the boards are to be used to tank a room then we recommend the use of our aqua seal tape to be applied to all joints (as per the aqua seal jointing tape instructions).

6: Once the boards are fitted care should be taken not to apply excessive point loads to the insulation until the subsequent surfaces have been installed. Small dents and damage caused to the surface of the boards are quite normal and of no concern. If however the boards are to be left exposed for long periods of time or other work is to be carried out over the boards they should be covered with sheets of ply or other hard sheet material to minimize the chance of damage.

7: It is advisable to fit the final floor covering as soon as possible once the insulation has been installed. When fitting the chosen final floor covering it is advisable to work on top of a hard board. This will help prevent damage to the insulation when the work is being carried out.

8A: Wood and laminate flooring. Both underfloor heating and wood type tongue and grove flooring can now be fitted directly over the insulation in accordance with the manufactures fitting instructions. Care should be taken to avoid leaving any high spots caused by the screws/fixing discs. If these screws/discs are a problem they can be screwed down further to pull them flush with the board surface. Make sure not to over tighten these screws/discs.

8B: Tile & Stone Flooring All tiles can now be fitted directly over the insulation. A suitable flexible tile adhesive should be used as directed by the adhesive manufacture. The tiling should be carried out in the normal way making sure to fit the tiles with a full bed of adhesive, (never dot and dab tiles). If Mosaic tiles are to be fitted a scrim tape should be fitted over all board joints to provide extra support.

8C: Vinyl & carpet. When fitting non rigid sheet material over the insulation boards, first a 8mm layer of flexible levelling compound should be fitted over the insulation. This will provide protection from high point loads as it will spread the weight over the insulation surface allowing the subsequent layers to be fitted. The levelling should be fitted in accordance with the manufactures instructions. (In high traffic or commercial areas, all board joints should have a scrim tape applied prior to the levelling being fitted).

8D: Wall tiles should be fitted in the normal way making sure to use a full bed of adhesive. The adhesive should be a flexible wall adhesive and applied / mixed in accordance with the manufactures instructions.

Joining Multiple Underfloor Heating Mats or Cables.

When installing multiple Living Heat underfloor heating mats, any number of heating mats can be joined together. Points to consider before joining multiple heat mats should be,


1: Are all floors the mats are being installed over the same? If the sub floor is not the same under all mats such as one area of floor is insulated and the other area un insulated, them two separate thermostats should be considered. This is because the two mats will have a different response rate so one thermostat would not be able to regulate both mats independently to account for this difference.


2: The same principle as point 1 would also apply to the finished floor covering as if two separate covering are used the response rate of the heating can be affected depending upon the floor covering installed.


3: The electrical loading of the heating system. Depending upon the total load of the heating system you may need to uprate the thermostat or wiring

4 The mats must be laid allowing for the connection ends to be joined in parallel. The mats must NOT be joined in series.
It is possible if only a couple, (max 2) mats are to be joined that they can be joined (wired in) directly into the terminal box inside the thermostat. If several mats are to be joined or if the thermostat is located some distance from the end of the heating mats then a junction box is the easiest way to join multiple mats. Both options are covered below.

Option 1. Joining multiple mats within the thermostat.

All living heat thermostats are designed so two heating cables can be wired directly into the thermostats. Please note when joining multiple mats the maximum electrical load of your thermostat must not be exceeded.

Please see diagram 1 which illustrates the joining of multiple mats into 1 thermostat.

Option 2: Joining multiple mats with junction box.

By joining multiple mats into a junction box this allows the installer to join all the heating cables together then simply take one spur to wherever the thermostat is located? Please note that like option 1 the maximum electrical load of the thermostat must not be exceeded but also a suitable sized junction / connection box will be required depending upon the size and number of mats to be installed.

Please see diagram 2 which illustrates the joining of multiple mats into a junction box and then one spur being taken onto the thermostats location.

Please note the above options are guidelines only and may not be suitable for your specific situation. All electrical connections should be carried out by a competent and qualified person in accordance with the current wiring regulations

Under Wood and Laminate Heat Film Kits.

1: The sub floor must be clean, sound and suitable for the chosen floor covering prior to laying the heating. 6mm impact plus thermal insulation or had insulation boards must be installed over the sub floor prior to fitting the heating, (see insulation fitting instructions).

2: Before laying the heating the floor should be measured accurately and a plan done to show where the individual mats are to be laid. All heat film mats are made to the customer’s measurements. If a proposed mat layout was produced and agreed this can now be followed which will show which mats are to be laid in which areas. If a proposed mat layout was not agreed the mat sizes would have been produced according to the customers stated mat sizes. (See Fig 2)

3: Once the mat layout has been determined the mats must be tested for continuity and resistance at this stage. The readings must be checked off and noted down on the back of the warranty page of this manual. All readings must be within tolerance.

(IMPORTANT, Once the mat is unrolled and taped to the floor it becomes the responsibility of the installer and the mat can not be returned for an alternate size).

4: The floor probe supplied with the thermostat should now be fitted. The probe must be installed directly under an area that will have a heat mat laid over. The probe must be scored into the floor/insulation and taped in place, leaving it flush with the insulation. The end of the probe should not be covered. Make sure when fitting the probe no other heating or cooling sources can influence the floor probe such as hot water pipes. Once the probe is fitted a resistance check should be carried out to confirm the probe is fully functional and the readings noted down on the warranty card. (See Fig 2 +4)

5: Lay the heating mats over the insulation COPPER BAR DOWN, making sure the mats do not overlap at any point. Tape can be used on the ends and edges to hold the mats in place. All cold tails and connection points to the heating mats must be scored into the insulation and taped over which will leave a flat level floor layer for the floor covering to be installed over.

6: The mats must always be connected in parallel, NOT series. If multiple mats are used, it is recommended to run all the cold connection wires back to one point. This will allow the installer at a later date to join all live wires together and all neutral wires together in a suitable junction box. One spur can then be taken from the junction box to the thermostat. (See Fig 3)

7: Once all the heating mats have been laid in place the vapour barrier can be fitted over. The vapour barrier does not have to cover the entire area only the heat mats themselves. Please note every 1 meter of vapour barrier folds out to be 4m in width. This like the heating mats can be held in place with the tape provided. (See Fig 4) If the final flooring is not to be fitted for some time the heat mats should be protected from damage with a suitable protective layer.

Resistance Check.

To check heat film mat resistance in Ohms (Ω) please follow the equation below

250 ÷ SQM (of mat) x 0.95 = Ω+/-10%

The reading must be within 10%, if not test the mat again or call technical for assistance.

The cold tails on each mat can be extended or shortened on site please consult your electrician as this will depend on mat layout and total heating load.

8: Once all the mats have been installed they must be retested, See step 3. The heating is now ready to have the final floor covering installed over. The heating must also be tested after the flooring has been fitted. There is no limit to how much the heating can be tested but to complete the warranty the heating must be tested before it is laid, after being laid and after the floor covering has been installed. All figures must be accurately recorded.

9: Before the heating is turned on, the floor manufacturer's max recommended floor temperature must be programmed into the thermostat. The thermostat installed must have a max default floor temperature setting and the thermostat must be set to regulate floor temperature only via a suitable floor probe / probes, (never run the thermostat on air temperature). If floor temperature is not regulated correctly, some floor coverings can be overheated and damaged. Please refer to your thermostat instructions for max floor temperature settings.

Hard insulation boards.

Underfloor hard thermal insulation boards are designed for use directly under tile, stone, wood and laminate floors. It can also be used under mosaic, vinyl and carpet flooring but must first have a suitable 9+mm layer of flexible self levelling installed over prior to the vinyl or carpet being fitted. The insulation comes in 6, 10 & 20mm depths. The steps below are to help guide you through the installation process.

1: The sub floor whether concrete or wood should be made suitable for the chosen floor covering, (ie tiles) prior to any boards being fitted. The boards are designed to provide increased insulation levels not structural rigidity.

2A: For Wood and Laminate Floors. Once step one is completed and the floor is level, clean, dust and debris free the boards are ready to be laid. The boards can be laid directly over the sub floor making sure to butt the boards tightly together so not to leave gaps between boards and round the edge of the room. This will help prevent movement and maximise the floor insulation. Once the floor is fully covered the heating, wood or laminate can be fitted directly over the insulation boards.

2B: For all other floor types. Make sure the floor is level, clean, dust and debris free as only then the boards can be laid. A suitable floor primer should be applied to provide a good fix for the adhesive (see adhesive fitting instructions).

3: Using a standard 1 part flexible floor tile adhesive, suitable for use with the sub floor construction, (ie wood or concrete) spread a thin full bed of adhesive over the floor. It is advisable to work in board size areas at a time and rather than using a typical floor tiling trowel, to use a smaller notched trowel such as a 6mm notch size which will increase the coverage of adhesive per bag.

4: Once the adhesive is spread lay the insulation boards over the freshly spread adhesive using a large, rigid, flat trowel/board to press the insulation boards down flat into/onto the adhesive. Care should be taken to make sure the boards are fully pressed into the adhesive and no air pockets or gaps are left under the boards. All boards should be butted tightly together making sure to achieve a full floor coverage. It is good practice to stagger joints between boards and if necessary the flexible floor adhesive can be used to fill any small gaps between boards.

5: If boards need to be cut to size this is easily done with a sharp Stanley knife.

6: Once the boards are laid and the adhesive is set, care should be taken not to apply excessive point loads to the insulation until the tiles or levelling has been installed. Small dents and damage caused to the surface of the boards are quite normal and of no concern. If however the boards are to be left exposed for long periods of time or other work is to be carried out over the boards they should be covered with sheets of ply or other hard sheet material to minimise the chance of damage.

7: It is advisable to fit the final floor covering as soon as possible once the insulation has been installed. When fitting the chosen final floor covering it is advisable to work on top of a hard board. This will help prevent damage to the insulation when the work is being carried out.

8A: Wood and laminate flooring. (If not following step 2A) Both under floor heating and wood type tongue and grove flooring can now be fitted directly over the insulation in accordance with the manufactures fitting instructions.

8B: Tile & Stone Flooring Tiles measuring 150x150mm can be fitted directly over the insulation. A suitable flexible tile adhesive should be used as directed by the adhesive manufacture. The tiling should be carried out in the normal way making sure to fit the tiles with a full bed of adhesive, (never dot and dab tiles).

8C: Fitting vinyl, carpet or mosaics. When fitting non interlocking rigid sheet material over the insulation boards an 9+mm layer of flexible levelling compound should first be fitted over the insulation. This will provide protection from high point loads as it will spread the weight over the insulation surface allowing the subsequent layers to be fitted. The levelling should be fitted in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions.

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